In sewing, stitching is an amalgamation in which two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other material are held together with stitches. Before the invention of the sewing machine, all the sewing was done by hand. Sutures in modern mass-produced household textiles, sporting goods, and ready-to-wear clothes are sewn by computer machines, while home shoes, dressings, quilting, crafts, haute couture and sewing can use a combination of hand stitching and machining.
In clothing construction, stitches are grouped by type (plain, arranged, bounded, or French) and positions in garments (center back, inseam, side seams). The seams are finished with various techniques to prevent rough cloth edges and to coat the inside of the garment.
Video Seam (sewing)
Jenis
All the basic layers used in clothing construction are variants on the four basic types of stitches:
- Plain sutures
- French layer
- Stitches are flat or wrinkled
- Tangled lips
A plain suture is the most common type of stitching machine. It combines two pieces of fabric together by sewing through both parts, leaving the suture allowance with the raw edge in the work. Sewing allowances usually require some sort of seam to prevent raveling.
Good piping or cording can be put into plain sutures.
In the French layer, the crimped edge of the fabric is fully enclosed for a neat end result. The first layer is stitched with the wrong side together, then the looseness of the stitches is trimmed and pressed. The second stitch is sewn with the right side together, attaching the original edge of the original stitch.
In flat or stitches, , two pieces of cloth combine with edges to the edges without overlap and sewn with hand stitches or machines wrapped around the rough edges. Old German or antique plates are the names of the 19th century for hand-stitched, flat stitches that combine two pieces of cloth in their selvages. This type of construction is found in traditional linen clothing such as shirts and chemises, and in handmade sheets are summed up from a narrow width of fabric loom.
In curved folds , both layers overlap with incorrect sides from the top layers placed on the right side of the bottom layer. Clumsy stitches are usually used for large, non-release materials, such as skin and felt.
Maps Seam (sewing)
Done
Finish sutures are treatments that secure and smooth out the rough edges of plain stitches to prevent raveling, by sewing over raw edges or attaching them in some kind of binding.
In mass-produced clothing, the plain suture loosening strips are usually trimmed and stitched together with overlock stitches using a serger. Plain linings can also be pushed open, with each separation allowance separately secured with overlock stitching. Traditional home sewing techniques to complete plain stitches include pruning with pinking scissors, oversewing with zigzag stitching, and hand or overcast machines.
A bonded suture has each raw edge of its seam clearance enclosed in strips of fabric, lace or 'binding' web that has been folded into a half lengthwise. An example of binding is a double-fold bias tape. The binding folds are wrapped around the raw edge of the stitching looseness and stitched, through all the thickness, catching the bottom binding sutures. Suture coatings are often used on light fabrics including silk and chiffon and striped clothing to produce a neat settlement.
The Hong Kong or Finished Hong Kong layer is a home tailoring term for the bound layer type in which each raw edge of the stitching allowance is separately wrapped in a binding cloth. In sewing or couture sewing, binding is usually a piece of tarpaulin from a lightweight fabric layer; in home sewing, commercial bias tapes are often used.
In Hong Kong finishing, the piece of refracted cloth is cut with the width of the suture allowance plus 1/4 ".The strip bias is placed over the stitching looseness, the right side together, and sewn 1/8" from the raw ends. The bias strip is then folded over the raw edge and surrounding it down and stitched in place.
Position
In clothing construction, stitches are identified by their position in apparel.
A central front seam runs vertically on the front of the garment.
A middle back stitch or back stitches runs vertically in the center of the garment. This can be used to make an anatomical formation to the back of the clothing primarily through the waist and hip area. It can also be used for styling and functional purposes that involve folds, vents, flares towards the hem or for backs like buttons or button zippers.
A side seam runs vertically at the bottom of the garment.
A side-back seam runs from the armcye to the waist, and adjusts the garment with a curve beneath the shoulder blade. Side-back seams can be used as a replacement, or in combination with, side and center back seams.
A shoulder suture runs from the neckline to the armscye, usually at the highest point of the shoulder.
Princess stitching in front or back running from shoulder or arm to rim on the back or front side. Princess stitches form clothes into curves and eliminate the need for racing across the chest, waist, and shoulders.
An inseam is a seam that binds the length of the legs of the panties. The distance from the groin down to the lower ankle is also known as inseam. The length of the inseam determines the length of the pant leg to fit the wearer. In the UK, this is usually known as inner foot measurements (for matching trousers).
Arrange or curled clipping
When making stitches that bend outward, the material will decrease en masse and stretched evenly if the notch is cut into the seam seam. Or, when making stitches that are curved inward, clips are cut into a stitching clearance to help the stitches lie flat by reducing bulk in the fabric.
Once the stitching allowance is pinned or discarded, they are often pressed flat with iron before sewing the final stitch. Pressing the suture looseness makes it easier to sew consistent finish stitches.
See also
- Embroidered embroidery
- Term terminology of sewing
- The term textile manufacturing
- List of sewing sutures
- Drafts
Note
References
- Anawalt, Patricia Rieff (2007). The Worldwide History of Dress . Thames & amp; Hudson. ISBN: 978-0-500-51363-7.
- Dillmont, ThÃÆ' Â © rÃÆ'¨se de (1884). Encyclopedia of Needlework .
- Reader's Digest (1976). Full Guide for Tailoring . Association Digest Readers, Inc. ISBNÃ, 0-89577-026-1. Picken, Mary Brooks (1957). Dictionary Mode . Funk and Wagnalls.
- Schaeffer, Claire B. (2001). Couture Sewing Technique . Taunton Press. ISBNÃ, 1-56158-497-5.
- Ward, Wendy (2014). Beginner's Guide to Dress: Sewing techniques and patterns for making your own clothes. David & amp; Charles. ISBN 978-1446304945
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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