Wiru (the older link ) is a type of fold formed by doubling the cloth back up and securing it in place. These are usually used in clothing and upholstery to collect a wide piece of cloth to a narrower circle.
The folds are categorized as pressed , which is ironed or if heat is set to sharp folds, or not pressed , falling in soft rounded folds.
The folds sewn into place are called tucks.
Video Pleat
Fullness
A piece of vertically suspended fabric such as a skirt or blindfold is often described in the form of "fullness". The fullness indicates the thickness/depth of the crease in relation to the original width of the fabric: the fabric sewn on "zero fullness" will be completely flat and has no folds; the fabric is stitched on "100% fullness" folded so it requires half the width just as if not folded at all (ie, 24 inches will be folded to 12 inches); if stitched to a "fullness of 150%," the unfolded fabric will be two and a half times wider than the last pleated piece (ie, 30-inch non-faded will end up as 12 inch fabric: 12 1.50 (12) = 30) ; If the fullness should be "50%", the original fabric would be one and a half times the pleated width (ie, 18 inches wide would end up as 12 inch inch: 12 0.50 (12) = 18), etc.
Maps Pleat
Type
accordion
The fold of the accordion or the fold of the blade is a tight folding form that allows the garment to expand its shape as it moves. Pleating the accordion is also used for several sleeves, such as the elbow-tip crease, with the fullness of the folds gathered near the cuff. This pleating form inspired Loie Fuller's "dance skirt". Accordion folds can also be used in a hand fan.
Box
The folded box is the fold of the back-to-back blades, and has a tendency to get out of the waist line. They have the same 3: 1 ratio as the knife fold, and may also be stacked to form "stacked-" or "double-box folds". These stacked box folds create more fullness and have a 5: 1 ratio. They also make larger layers. The reverse fold box has an inner "box" on the inside instead of the outside.
Cartridge
The cartridge folds are used to collect large quantities of fabric into a small belt or armcye without adding mostly to the stitches. This type of crease also allows the skirt or sleeve to come out of the stitches. During the 15th and 16th centuries, this folding shape was very popular in men's and women's suits. Cloths are evenly collected using two or more stitching sutures, and the top of each fold is attached to a belt or arm protector. Pleating cartridge was raised in the 1840s to attach an increasingly bell-shaped skirt to the fashionable narrow waist.
Fluttered
Fluted pleats or "flutings" are very small, round or folded folds used as decoration. Its name comes from its resemblance to the pan flute.
Fortuny
Fortuny folds are fresh folds arranged in silk by designer Mariano Fortuny in the early 20th century, using a confidential pleat setting process that is still not understood.
Honeycomb
Honeycomb folds are thin and rolled folds that are used as the foundation for smocking.
Kick
The crease is a short crease that leads upward from the underside of the clothes like a skirt or a coat, usually at the back. They allow the garment to hang straight down while silent while also allowing freedom of movement.
Organ
Pleats organs are parallel rows of rounded folds that resemble pipe organ pipes. Carl KÃÆ'¶hler suggested that this be made by inserting one or more scratches into the fabric panel.
Plissà ©  ©
Plissà © pleats are narrow folds made by collecting cloth with stitches, wetting the fabric, and "arranging" the fold by allowing the wet cloth to dry under weight or tension. Linen chemises or sweatshirts folded with this technique have been found in a 10th-century Viking cemetery in Birka.
Scroll
The rolled up creases create a tubular crease that runs the length of the fabric from top to bottom. A piece of fabric to be folded is clamped and then rolled up flat with the rest of the fabric, forming a tube. Variations in rolled creases are stacked folds, which are rolled together and require at least five inches of cloth per finished sheet. Both types of creases create large stitches.
Watteau
Watteau folds are one or two fold boxes found in the back neck of an 18th century sack dress and some imitate late 19th century tea gowns. The term is not contemporary, but is used by costume historians who refer to these styles as depicted in Antoine Watteau's paintings.
Kingussie
Kingussie folds, named after a town in Scotland, are a very rarely used pleat type in a few Scottish kilts. They consist of a pleat box located at the back of the skirt with folds of blades expanding on both sides.
Modern usage
Features a folding outfit for practical reasons (to give freedom of movement to the wearer) as well as for purely stylistic reasons.
Shirt, blouse, jacket
Shirts and blouses usually have a fold on the back to give freedom of movement and in the arm where the arm is smaller to meet the cuff. A standard men's shirt has a folding box in the middle of the back just below the shoulder or alternately a simple fold on each back side.
Jackets designed for active outdoor use often have creases (usually folds of the box upside down) to allow freedom of movement. The Norfolk jackets have an inverted box flap on the chest and back.
Skirts and skirts
Skirts, dresses and skirts can include folds of various types to add to the fullness of the waist or hips, or at the edges, to allow freedom of movement or attain design effects.
- One or more folds of kicks can be set near the edges of the straight skirt to allow the user to walk comfortably while maintaining a narrow band of style.
- Modern tiles can be made with square folds or folds of knives, and can be folded into lines or pleated to settings or view Kilts: Pleating and stitching coverage.
Trousers
The folds just under the belt on the front of the garment is a hallmark of many styles of casual and casual pants including a khaki pant suit and trousers. There may be one, two, three, or no folds, which may be facing in any direction. When the folds open into their pockets are called inverted folds (typical khakis and corduroys) and when they open toward the zipper, they are known as folds forward .
A utilitarian or very casual style such as jeans and flat-front cargo pants (without a fold at the waist) but may have a bellows pouch.
Pants pleated very popular before World War II; rationing of cloths during the war blocking the style, and the flat front becomes standard due to the shortage of fabric. The folds on the men's trousers remain a classic style choice suitable for more traditional looks, while flat front pants are a newer trend mode.
Pockets
A bag of bellows is the outboard pocket with inset inset inserts to allow the bag to expand as it is filled. Bags of bellows are typical of cargo pants, safari jackets, and other utilitarian clothing.
Gallery
- Folding folding fan folding, Japan, 19th century
- Afternoon costumes with pleated pleated skirt and pleated corset panel, France, 1886
- Fortuny folded Delphos dress, 1917
- Knitted knives with folds sewn to hip lines, 2005
- Organ pleated dress, Florentine, 1470
- Tea gowns with folded backs-Watteau, Russia, 1899
- Greek Fustanella - men's clothing with folds
See also
- Dart
Note
References
- Arnold, Janet: Fashion Patterns: cutting and clothing construction for men and women 1560-1620 , Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. ISBNÃ, 0-89676-083-9
- Arnold, Janet: Dress Pattern 1 (cut and build women's clothing, 1660-1860) , Wace 1964, Macmillan 1972. Revised metrics edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBNÃ, 0-89676- 026 -X.
- Kohler, Carl: Costume History , Dover Publications reprinted, 1963, ISBNÃ, 0-486-21030-8
- Owen-Crocker, Gale R., Dressed in the revised Anglo-Saxon English edition, Boydell Press, 2004, ISBNÃ, 1-84383-081-7
- Picken, Mary Brooks, Fashion Dictionary , Funk and Wagnalls, 1957. (ISBN edition 1973 ISBN: 0-308-10052-2)
- Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, Cloth Society: One Century People and Busanaya 1770-1870, Laura Ashley Press, ISBNÃ, 0-9508913-0-4
External links
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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