Linen is a textile made from linseed fiber. Linens are very hard to produce, but the fibers are very absorbent and linen clothing is appreciated for its extraordinary coolness and freshness in hot weather.
The word linen is of West Germanic origin and a cognate with Latin names for hemp plants, linum , and earlier Greek ????? ( linÃÆ'³n ). The history of this word has spawned a number of other terms in English, especially the line, from the use of linen yarn to determine the straight line. Many products are made of linen: apron, bag, towel (swimming, bath, beach, body towel and wash), napkins, bed sheets, tablecloth, runners, chair covers, and men's and women's suits.
The term collective "linen" is still commonly used to describe a class of woven or knitted fabrics, baths, tables and kitchens traditionally made of linen. In the past, "linen" was also called lightweight underwear such as shirts, chemises, waist-shirts, lingerie, and removable collar and cufflinks, all of which were historically made almost exclusively from linen. Layers in fine cloth composite clothing (such as jackets) are traditionally made of linen, then the word layer .
Textiles in linen texture, even when made of cotton, hemp and other non-flax fibers, are also freely referred to as "linen". Such fabrics generally also have their own particular names, such as fine cotton threads with linen-style woven fabrics called Madapolam.
Linen textiles seem to be some of the oldest in the world: their history goes back thousands of years. Fragments of straw, seeds, fibers, yarns, and various types of cloth dating back to about 8000 BC have been found in Swiss lakes. The dyed dyed fiber found in prehistoric caves in Georgia shows the use of woven linen fabrics from the wild flax may date back even earlier to 36,000 BP.
Linen is sometimes used as a form of currency in ancient Egypt. Egyptian mummy wrapped with linen as a symbol of light and purity, and as a display of wealth. Some of these fabrics, woven from hand-spun yarn, are great for their day, but more rough than modern linens. In 1923, the German city of Bielefeld issued a banknote printed with linen. Today, linen is usually an expensive textile produced in relatively small quantities. It has a long staple (individual fiber length) relative to cotton and other natural fibers.
Video Linen
Etimologi
The word "linen" comes from Latin for flax, which linum , and the previous Greek ????? ( linon ). The history of this word has given rise to a number of other terms:
- Lines, derived from the use of linen threads to determine straight lines
- Layers, because linen is often used to create layers for wool and leather clothing
- Lingerie, in French, initially shows underwear made of linen
- Hemp seed oil, oil derived from flax seed
- Linoleum, floor cover made of flaxseed oil and other ingredients
Maps Linen
History
The discovery of hemp fiber dyed in a cave in Georgia dated to thirty-six thousand years ago suggests that ancient people used wild hemp fiber to make such linen from the earliest date.
In ancient Mesopotamia, hemp was domesticated and linen was first produced. It is used mainly by the richer classes of society, including priests. Sumerian poems about the courtship of Inanna and Dumuzi (Tammuz), translated by Samuel Noah Kramer and Diane Wolkstein and published in 1983, mention hemp and linen. It opens with a short list of steps preparing linen from hemp, in the form of questions and answers between Inanna and her sister Utu.
In ancient Egypt, linen was used for mummification and for the shroud. It is also worn as a garment every day; White linen is used because of extreme heat. The use of linen for the clothing of the priests is not limited to the people of Israel; Plutarch writes that the Isis priests also wore linen because of their purity.
Linen fabrics have been used for desk covers, bed covers and clothing for centuries. Significant linen costs not only come from the difficulty of working with the yarn, but also because the flax itself takes a lot of attention. In addition, flax yarn is not elastic, and therefore difficult to weave without breaking the thread. So linens are much more expensive to produce than cotton.
There is a long history of linen production in Ireland. The Living Linen Project was founded in 1995 as an oral archive of knowledge of the Irish linen industry, which at that time was still available in the core of people who had previously worked in industry in Ulster.
In December 2006, the United Nations General Assembly proclaimed 2009 as the International Year of Natural Fiber to raise public awareness about linen and other natural fibers.
Antiquity
When the tomb of Pharaoh Ramesses II, who died in 1213 BC, was discovered in 1881, his fabrics were in perfect preservation after more than 3,000 years.
In Belfast Library there is a mummy "Kaboolie," the daughter of an Ammon priest, who died 2,500 years ago. The linen fabric on this mummy is also in perfect state of preservation. When Tutankhamen's tomb was opened, the linen curtain was found intact.
The earliest linen industry
The earliest records of an established linen industry are 4,000 years, from Egypt. The earliest written documentation on the linen industry comes from Linear B tablets from Pylos, Greece, where linen is described as an ideogram and also written as "li-no" (Greek: ?????, linon >), and female linen workers are catalysed as "li-ne-ya" (??????, lineia ).
The Phoenicians, who, with their trading fleet, opened new trade channels for the Mediterranean community, and developed a tin mine in Cornwall, introducing growing flax and linen manufacture to Ireland before the general era. It was not until the twelfth century that we could find records of a definite effort to systematize the production of hemp.
When the Edict of Nantes was lifted, in 1685, many Huguenots who fled from France settled in the British Isles, and among them was Louis Crommelin, who settled in Lisburn town, about ten miles from Belfast. Belfast itself is probably the most famous center of linen production in history; During the Victorian era, the majority of the world's linen was produced in a city that made it named Linenopolis.
Although the linen industry was established in Ulster, Louis Crommelin found space for improvement in weaving, and his efforts were so successful that he was appointed by the Government to develop the industry in a much wider range than the small boundaries of Lisburn and its surroundings.. The immediate outcome of his good work was the establishment, under the law, of the Board of Supervisors of Irish Linen Producers in 1711. Some values ​​resulted from the rudest lockram to the best sasheen.
Religion
In Judaism, the only law of cloth that may be intertwined in clothing concerns a mixture of linen and wool, called shaatnez ; it is limited in Deuteronomy 22:11 "Thou shalt not use mixed things, wool and linen together" and Leviticus 19:19, "'... will not come unto thee of the garments of the two kinds of mixed things. "There is no explanation for this in the Torah itself and is categorized as a type of law known as chukim , a law beyond the human ability to understand.Josephus suggested that the reason for the ban was to keep the laity wearing the priest's official dress, while Maimonides thought that the reason was that the pagan priests wore such a mixture.Others explained that it was because God often forbade different kinds of mixtures, not designed by God to be compatible in a certain way, by mixing animal fibers and vegetables similar to having two different types of pirated animals paired together, and that such orders serve both practical and allegorical purposes, perhaps here preventing priestly clothing that would cause discomfort (or excessive sweating) in a hot climate. in the Bible in Proverbs 31, a portion that describes a noble wife. Proverbs 31:22 says, "He made a cover for his bed, he wore fine linen and purple." The fine white cloth is also worn by angels in the Bible. In Revelation, chapter 15, verse 6.
Hemp fiber
Description
Linen is a bark fiber. The hemp fiber varies in length from about 25 to 150 mm (1 to 6 inches) and an average diameter of 12-16 micrometers. There are two varieties: shorter tow fibers are used for rough fabrics and longer line fibers are used for fine fabrics. The hemp fiber can usually be identified by their "knots" which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric.
The linen fiber cross section consists of an irregular polygonal shape that contributes to the rough texture of the fabric.
Properties
The Linen fabric feels cool to the touch, a phenomenon that shows a higher conductivity (the same principle that makes the metal feel "cold"). It's smooth, makes the fabric so fiber-free, and softer, cleaner. However, constant tangles in the same place in the sharp fold will tend to damage the linen threads. This outfit can appear on the collar, seams, and any areas that are wrinkled during washing. Linens have poor elasticity and are not easy to return, explaining why wrinkles are so easy.
Cloth Linen has a high natural sparkle; Their natural colors range between shades of ivory, ecru, tan, or gray. Clean white linen made with heavy bleaching. Cloth Linen usually varies in thickness and crisp and textured, but in some cases it feels stiff and rough, and in other cases feels soft and smooth. When properly prepared, the fabric linen has the ability to absorb and lose water quickly. Linen can absorb enough moisture without feeling moist on the skin, unlike cotton.
Linen is a very durable, strong cloth, and one of the stronger bit wet than dry. Fiber does not stretch, and is resistant to damage caused by abrasion. However, since linen fibers have very low elasticity, the fabric eventually breaks apart when folded and ironed in the same place repeatedly over time.
Mushrooms, sweat, and bleach can also damage the fabric, but are resistant to moths and carpet beetles. Linen is relatively easy to treat, because it is impervious to dirt and stains, has no tendency to fibers or pilling, and can be washed dry, machine washed or steamed. It can withstand high temperatures, and has only moderate depreciation.
Linen should not be drained too much with quick drying, and easier ironing when moist. Linen wrinkles are very easy, and thus some more formal clothes require frequent ironing, to keep the smoothness perfectly. However, the tendency for wrinkles is often considered part of the "charm" of certain linens, and many modern linen clothes are designed to be dried in the air on fine hangers worn without ironing.
Characteristics often associated with linen threads are "slubs", or small nodes that occur randomly along their length. In the past, slubs have traditionally been regarded as flawed, and attributed to low quality linen. However, in many cases of today's linen, especially in the decorative furnishings industry, slubs are considered part of the aesthetic appeal of expensive natural products. In addition, slubs do not affect the integrity of the fabric, and therefore they are not viewed as flawed. However, very fine linen has very consistent diameter threads, no mucus at all.
Measure
The standard size of the bulk linen yarn is "lea", which is the number of yards in a pound of linen divided by 300. For example, a yarn that has a size of 1 lea will give 300 meters per pound. The fine threads used in the handkerchief, etc. Maybe 40a, lea, and give 40x300 = 12.000Ã, yard per pound. This is a certain length therefore indirect measurement of linen fineness, ie the number of units of length per unit mass. The symbol is NeL. (3) Metric unit, Nm, is more common in continental Europe. This is the amount of 1,000 m per kilogram. In China, the British Cotton system unit, NeC, is common. This is the sum of 840 yards long in a pound.
Production method
The quality of linen products so often depends on growth conditions and harvesting techniques. To produce the longest fiber, hemp can be harvested by pulling the whole plant or stalk cut very close to the roots. After harvest, the plants are dried, and the seeds are removed through a mechanical process called "rippling" (threshing) and winnowing.
Fiber must be removed from the stem. This is achieved through retting. This is a process that uses bacteria to decompose pectin that binds the fibers together. Natural retreat methods occur in tanks and swimming pools, or directly in the fields. There is also a chemical retting method; this is faster, but it is usually more dangerous for the environment and the fiber itself.
After retting, the stalk is ready for scutching, which runs between August and December. Scutching removes the wood part from the rod by crushing it between two metal rolls, so that the stalks can be separated. The fibers are removed and other parts such as flaxseed, shive, and cranes are set aside for other uses. Furthermore, the fibers are reproached: the short fibers are separated by a wrinkled comb by 'combing' them, to leave only long and soft hemp fibers.
Once the fibers are separated and processed, they are usually spun into yarn and woven or knitted into linen. These textiles can then be bleached, dyed, printed, or finished with some care or coating.
Alternative production methods are known as faster "capacisation" and require less equipment. The hemp stems are processed using a traditional cotton machine; However, the fibers so often lose the distinctive look of linen.
Producer
Hemp grows in many parts of the world, but high quality jute is mainly grown in Western European countries and Ukraine. In recent years mass production of linen has moved to Eastern Europe and China, but high quality fabrics are still limited to niche manufacturers in Ireland, Italy and Belgium, as well as in countries including Poland, Austria, France, Germany, Sweden, Denmark, Belarus, Lithuania, Latvia, Netherlands, Spain, Switzerland, UK and Kochi in India. High quality linen fabrics are now manufactured in the United States for coatings and in Belgium. Russia is currently the country's main flax cultivation.
Usage
Over the last 30 years the end use for linen has changed dramatically. About 70% of linen production in the 1990s was for textile apparel, whereas in 1970 only about 5% was used for fashion fabrics.
Cloth using various in bed and bath cloth (tablecloth, bath towel, towel plate, bedspread); home and commercial furniture (wallpaper/wall coverings, coatings, window treatments); clothing items (suits, dresses, skirts, shirts); and industrial products (luggage, canvas, sewing thread). It used to be the preferred thread for moving the top of moccasin-style shoes (shoes), but has been replaced by synthetics.
A linen handkerchief, pressed and folded to show the corners, is a standard dressed-up dress for most of the first part of the 20th century.
Currently the researchers are working on a mixture of cotton/hemp to create new yarn that will improve the denim nuance during hot and humid weather.
Linen fabric is one of the favored traditional supports for oil painting. In the United States, cotton is more popularly used, because linen is many times more expensive there, limiting its use to professional painters. In Europe, however, linen is usually the only fabric support available in art shops; in the UK both are available freely with cheaper cotton. Linens are preferred over cotton because of their strength, durability and archival integrity.
Linen is also used extensively by bakers. Known as a sofa, hemp cloth is used to hold the dough into temporary shape in the last hike, before baking. The couch is heavily sprinkled with flour that is rubbed into the fabric pores. Then the shaped dough is placed on the couch. The flour cake makes the surface "non stick" to hold the dough. Then the ridge is formed on the couch to keep the dough from spreading.
In the past, linen was also used for books (the only surviving example of which was Liber Linteus). Because of its power, in the Middle Ages linen was used for shields, gambesons, and bowstrings; in ancient times the classic was used to create a type of body armor, referred to as linothorax.
Due to its strength when wet, Irish linen fabrics are very popular with pool billiards/billiards, due to the absorption of sweat from the hand. Paper made of linen can be very strong and crunchy, which is why the United States and many other countries print their currency on paper made of 25% linen and 75% cotton.
See also
- Dowlas, the strong linen mentioned by Shakespeare
- Ramie, a kind of bark fiber with similar properties
References
External links
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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