Lapel is a folded cloth fold on the front of a jacket or coat and is most commonly found on formal wear and jacket coats. Usually they are formed by folding on the front edge of the jacket or coat and sewing it onto the collar, an extra piece of cloth around the back of the neck.
There are three basic forms of collar: curved, peaked, and scarf. Curvy collars, most commonly, are commonly seen in business settings. The collar peaks more formally, and is almost always used on double breasted jackets, but also often appears on single breasted. Shawl collars are usually carried by a dinner jacket, a messy jacket, and a tuxedo.
Video Lapel
Collar type
Notched collar
The notched collar (American English), collar step or step collar (English English) is sewn onto the collar at an angle, creating a step effect. It is standard on a single-breasted suit, and is used on almost any jacket jacket, blazer, and sports jacket. Collared collar double-breasted jacket is a rare arrangement. The size of a notch may vary, and a small notch is called The collar peaked
top collar (American English), top collar , double-breasted style collar or pointed collar (English English ), is the most formal, featured on a double-breasted jacket, all formal coats such as a tail suit or mantle in the morning, and also usually with tuxedo (both single and double breasted). In the late 1920s and 1930s, a single-breasted collar jacket was considered a very stylish design. The feature was brought into the day's clothing with the increasing popularity of a dinner jacket peaking. The ability to cut the top collars correctly in a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging sewing tasks, even for highly experienced tailors.
Flapper Scarf
scarf shawl , collar scroll , or scarf shawl is a continuous curve. Originally seen on Victoria's smoking jacket, it's now most common in a dinner jacket or tuxedo. It also begins as an informal sleeping attire, and then made in a more formal version, depending on the situation in which it will be used. This is also commonly used on mess jackets.
Maps Lapel
Recommended collars
The collar has buttons on the left, which are meant to hold boutonniÃÆ'¨re, ornamental flowers. This is now only commonly seen in more formal events. To hold the flowers correctly, a circle is mounted on the back of the collar. For symmetry, double breasted outfits often have buttonholes in each collar. Pin collar is also sometimes worn.
The width of the collar is a very varied aspect of clothing, and has changed a lot over the years. But some designers maintain that the most stylish lapel width has not changed, and that the collar "should be widened to only a fraction less than the half mark between the collar and shoulder line".
Origin
The most common collar style, curvy collar, comes from an older jacket type or coat that is draped to the neck, by unbuttoning and rewinding the top of the closure at a corner of the room or in hot weather, and then removing the top of the button. The top points are from the tip of the collar. It can be duplicated by reversing the closure in a modern garment with button-to-neck like an outdoor coat or an outer shirt. Sometimes when caught outside in bad weather with a worn jacket and nothing on it, the wearer may open the collar and hold them that way to temporarily reproduce the neck of the ancestral closure.
When the tailcoat evolves rapidly among rich people during the Regency period, various styles of closure look at popularity, from fasteners at the top, center, or even hanging open. The turn-down collar was popular in previous clothing as the skirt was replaced by a long collar folded down to the waist (fashionly tightly on). Without exception, there is a long row of buttons on the front, most of which are not fast; Even in the late Victorian era, all the skirt coats had long rows of buttonhole on the collar, long since obsolete. When the locking force changes, the looped front is loosely corresponding to the shifting shape, and V is then formed by the continuous folding and collar encounter now in the traditional form of the notched and peaked collar, both of which originated from that period.
Once double breasted frock coats are established, the collar is shriveled and shaped more statically, varying only in such high detail, as they are buttoned almost to the neck by Edwardian, then extended to the classic three-button form, a two-button jacket into further American innovation. Another significant change during that period was the use of a reversal in the construction of the collar, since the Victorians used an intricate three-part pattern to cut the folds of fabric from the layer to the front of the collar, the general consideration of the coat skirt and the dress coat of the period, but abandoned for the collar single current at the same time by switching to the mantle of the morning and casual wear. Modern lapels are mostly identical in shape with their 1930s counterparts.
Some historians dressed as Bernard Rudofsky have mocked the evolution of jacket collar into "very unnecessary cover" and "basic decoration", while others have celebrated the transformation of lapels into "fetishes" as part and part of fashion as expression.
Long collar jacket
Though less common among men's clothing in the west, other jacket styles do not have collars. Jackets with mandarin collars, also called stand collars, band collars or collar necklaces, including Nehru jackets and various military apparel uniforms, such as the British Army and the US Marine Corps. The collapse collar, also called Prussian collar and ghillie collar, was once Mao's military and clothing suit.
Note
Bibliography
- Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit: Machiavellian Approach to Male Style . HarperCollins. ISBN 978-0-06-089186-2.
- Flusser, Alan (1985). Clothing and Men: The Principles of Fine Men's Dress . Villard. ISBNÃ, 0-394-54623-7 . Retrieved 2008-09-20 .
- Flusser, Alan (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion . HarperCollins. ISBN: 0-06-019144-9.
- Rudofsky, Bernard (1947). What Are Modern Clothes? . Paul Theobald.
- Whife, A.A (ed): The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier . The Caxton Publishing Company Ltd, London, 1951
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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